If you have ever stood in front of your bathroom mirror, clutching five different lotions and potions and wondering if you have somehow time-travelled back to your high school chemistry class, then you are not alone. Skin alchemy can be daunting, especially if you have sensitive skin and live in constant fear that one wrong move with somehow cause your face to spontaneously combust.
Welcome to the glorious chaos of modern skincare. We are living in the golden age of skincare ingredients: vitamin C, retinol, AHAs and BHAs, niacinamide, you name it. And while all these ingredients offer incredible results, the catch is that not all of them play nicely together. Throw the wrong combo into your routine, and instead of dewy radiance, you might be left red, flaky, and questioning every life decision that led you to this moment.
So if you’ve ever wondered what goes with what, what needs to be broken up immediately, and how to actually layer your products without causing irritation or wasting your money, this guide is for you.
Skin chemistry 101
While we may think of our skin as being smooth and simple, it’s actually surprisingly complex and very opinionated. So we will give you the briefest explanation in layman's terms as to why some products simply do not belong on the skin at the same time. The surface of your skin has a protective barrier known as the acid mantle. This slightly acidic environment (with a pH around 4.5 to 5.5) keeps the good stuff in and the bad stuff out, and when you apply skincare, you’re essentially shifting the pH, texture, and hydration level of that delicate barrier.
Some ingredients are acidic. Others are alkaline. Some dissolve in water, others in oil. Which is why knowing what plays well together matters just as much as knowing what works individually. And while we’re not here to make you feel like you’re back in high school chemistry class, this small amount of background knowledge does help to understand the general vibe of your key actives and how they operate.
Vitamin C
We know it, we love it, and we probably use it in some shape or form. It is a legendary skincare ingredient for a reason, and that reason is really very simple: it works. Whether you suffer from uneven skin tone, pigmentation, texture, fine lines, acne scars, or just all-around dullness, vitamin C and the skincare products it is featured in are probably a recommended treatment.
Because vitamin C is brightening, protective and antioxidant-rich, it's a perfect match for your morning routine. But if you are using a strong vitamin C serum like the PRO Strength Vitamin C (then luck you because it’s a great product), but it's not going to love being paired with other strong actives. If you start combining your vitamin C with exfoliating acids or retinol, things can get spicy, and not in a good way.
If you have a potent vitamin C serum, then let it have its moment. Cleanse, apply your vitamin C, follow up with a hydrating serum like the Ultimate Renewal Serum, then lock it in with a moisturiser and SPF and Bob’s your uncle.
Niacinamide
Niacinamide plays a crucial role in supporting various cellular functions essential for maintaining healthy, vibrant skin. From enhancing the skin’s natural barrier to boosting collagen production and regulating pigmentation, its versatility makes it an essential component in any good modern skincare routine.
And the best part? Niacinamide is like your friend who gets along with anyone and everyone. She’s the unproblematic queen of the skincare world. You can pair niacinamide with vitamin C (yes, really), with acids, with retinol, with, well… basically anything. It truly is the ultimate team player.
In fact, adding niacinamide into a routine full of stronger actives can help buffer irritation. We love the Skinsmiths PRO Strength Niacinamide layered after vitamin C in the morning, or before your retinol at night. It’s one of those ingredients you’ll keep reaching for once you realise how well-behaved it is.
AHAs and BHAs
Alpha-hydroxy acids (like glycolic and lactic) and beta-hydroxy acids (like salicylic) are brilliant for refining skin texture, clearing pores, and boosting glow. They work by dissolving the ‘glue’ that holds dead skin cells on the surface, revealing the fresher, smoother layers underneath.
And if you want a skincare product that will make you gasp at the results, then I would probably recommend AHAs and BHAs; truly, nothing can whip your skin into shape quite like it. But here’s the catch. Acids are strong, which is what makes them work so well. And, in some cases, too strong. If you are using a dedicated peel like the Resufacing AHA/BHA Peel, well, first of all, prepare to pick your jaw up off the floor in the morning because the results are truly incredible. But don’t go layering on any other actives like vitamin C or retinol at the same time.
Pick your battles. Acids go best on clean, dry skin and usually work best when they are given space to work their magic. If your skin is used to them, then you can probably layer a niacinamide or hydrating serum over the top. But the peel on its own, followed by a gentle but effective moisturiser like the Rebalancing Moisturiser, is truly all you need.
Retinol
From acne to dullness, the laundry list of retinol benefits is truly something to behold. Retinol is undoubtedly one of the heavy-lifters in the world of skincare. Whether you’re looking to brighten, tighten, repair or revive, you can almost guarantee that incorporating retinol into your skincare regimen will help you get there. Basically, unlike a lot of things in life, retinol is absolutely worth the hype.
But it can also be incredibly irritating if you overdo it. Retinol prefers a low-key environment, so avoid pairing it with strong acids or vitamin C in the same routine, especially if you are new to it. Instead, think about building a retinol sandwich. Cleanse, apply a hydrating serum like the Ultimate Renewal Serum, then apply your PRO Strength Retinol, then top it off with a soothing moisturiser that doesn’t contain any actives. If your skin is feeling extra sensitive, then you can also apply the moisturiser before and after the retinol to create more of a buffer.
We also don’t recommend applying your retinol on an exfoliation night.
What about peptides, ceramides and other fancy things?
Peptides are little chains of amino acids that help signal your skin to produce more collagen. Ceramides help repair your barrier and keep moisture locked in. These tend to be gentle, nourishing ingredients that can be layered in almost any routine, regardless of actives.
That means if your skin is stressed, sensitive, or just in need of a hug, these are the ingredients to reach for. Because they play well with others, you can use them as your final layer or between stronger treatments to reset your skin.
How to avoid irritation
We get it, actives give you great results, and this can make it very tempting to try to use them as much as humanly possible. But more isn’t always better. You don’t need to use every active every day. In fact, your skin will be far happier if you rotate your products on a schedule, which is known as skin cycling.
Or, you can go by what your skin is feeling on a certain day. Feeling dull and clogged? Reach for your AHA/BHA peel. Breaking out? Consider a salicylic acid mask or serum. Want to focus on glow and brightening? Vitamin C and niacinamide to the rescue. Seeing signs of ageing or texture? Go for your retinol. But not all at once. Give each product space to shine. And if you’re introducing something new, patch test first and introduce it slowly. One new product at a time is always best.
Trust the process
Skincare layering can feel like an elaborate puzzle, but once you know the rules, it becomes second nature. The biggest mistake most people make is actually doing too much, too fast. The best way to approach any skincare routine is to listen to what works for you and your skin, give it time, and remember the best routine is the one that feels good and keeps your skin calm. So mix smart, layer lightest to heaviest, and when in doubt, niacinamide is always a safe option.
