At Skinsmiths, we like to rely on clinical results. At the end of the day, the key to a good skincare product is its effective ingredient list. If the first five ingredients on a product read like filler, then it’s probably a sign to keep shopping. On the other side of the coin, if you are looking for results-driven products that deliver on their promises then anything with retinol, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid or peptides is usually a recipe for success.
When it comes to widely beloved skincare ingredients, there are few more highly revered than retinol. It has been in the game for a long time and has maintained its position as being both well-known and well-loved, which is a hard thing to pull off tbh. Retinol has been through all the Goldilocks-level ingredient testing and scrutiny and has managed to stand the test of time. But the reason that retinol is so effective is because it’s a, relatively strong, active ingredient. This means that it's unfortunately not tolerated by everyone, and it may take a little while for your skin to adapt to it.
If you have relatively well-behaved skin that adapts to different products, chances are you will find retinol slips into your routine without hiccups. However, if your skin can be on the sensitive side you may experience what is known as the ‘retinol purge’. To help you navigate this journey, here’s an in-depth exploration of the retinol purge phenomenon including what it is, how long it will last and how to maintain your skin health in the meantime.
What is a retinol purge?
Retinol is the jack of all trades when it comes to skincare. If you have skin, then chances are including a retinol product in your skincare will benefit you in one way or another. But, like everything in life, there is a price to pay when it comes to things this good. And in retinols case, that price is that retinol is potent, and can come with side effects.
If you’ve done your research on the benefits and side effects of retinol skincare then you’ve likely come across what is known as the ‘retinol purge’. The retinol purge is a common side effect with around 20% of people experiencing it to some degree. But the good news is that for most people this purging phase is temporary and you might not even experience it all!
In basic terms, a retinol purge is when your skin breaks out during the first few weeks of retinoid use. And this may sound nonsensical as one of retinols main benefits is its ability to treat and keep acne at bay. But alas, many people will experience this side effect when they first introduce their skin to retinol. It’s also working toward a great goal, as the reason this is happening is that your skin is actually getting rid of the acne that is brewing below the surface, so basically it gets worse before it gets better.
Because retinoids work by accelerating skin cell turnover, the first few weeks can come as a bit of a shock to the skin. All the blockages in your skin (that you might not have even known were there) are suddenly being cleared out. And while these would have eventually made their way to the surface of the skin, this process is sped up when you use retinol products. As frustrating as this may be, it’s actually a sign that the products are doing their job, so stick with it.
Why the retinol purge is worth persevering with
This question is best answered by first starting with what retinol is and how it benefits our skin.
What is retinol?
Retinol is a type of retinoid or vitamin A derivative often found in all types of skincare, from moisturisers to serums to eye creams. The beauty of retinol is that it helps with cell repair and renewal, which makes it a particularly beneficial ingredient for acne sufferers, while also working to plump and reduce the signs of fine lines. Basically - if everyone and anyone should be incorporating at least one retinol product into their skincare regime if they want to look like a dewy angel!
How does it work?
Despite the benefits of retinoids, retinols and vitamin A products are plenty, all the positives generally come down to one crucial factor; the ingredient's ability to encourage skin cell turnover. Basically, they help to regulate your skin's natural cell production and ensure that these are where they need to be.
What are the main benefits of retinol?
Increases skin cell production
The benefit that largely leads to all the other benefits, is the increase in cell production, which will help ward away unwanted fine lines and wrinkles if you start using it early enough. As we age, our cell generation will begin to slow, this is what leads to wrinkles and dullness. Retinols help to combat this by speeding up the cell turnover process in a way that makes your skin behave in the way it did when it was younger.
This also makes it beneficial for acne sufferers as it can help to regulate the skin's sebum production, which can often lead to breakouts.
Exfoliates skin and unclogs pores
Because retinols work to regulate the skin's cell turnover, in-turn prevents pores from becoming clogged. This is not only great for avoiding acne breakouts, but it also leads to a generally brighter appearance and means your other skincare can be absorbed more effectively.
Exfoliates skin and unclogs pores
Even if you’re not trying to ward off the signs of aging, or cure acne, retinols are still a worthy addition to anyone's regime. They basically, well, they just make your skin look better. If you’re feeling a bit bleh retinol will definitely give you a pick-me-up. That’s because as well as increasing cell turnover, it also increases the skin's collagen production. This leads to the skin appearing plumper and having less dullness.
Reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
As we touched on earlier, when you’re younger your skin cell turnover is naturally around every 28 days - which means that you will have a new layer of pristine skin every month. As we age, your cell regeneration will naturally begin to slow and as this happens the skin will start to appear dryer and wrinkles will begin to form.
Because retinols speed up this process, it will help to enable the skin to behave in a way it did when you were younger. The result? Fresher, more youthful skin.
So, while the initial stages of the purge may be offputting, if you persevere with it you too can experience all the myriad of benefits described above, which is pretty magical really.
Recognising the signs of a retinol purge
The signs of a retinol purge will generally appear between 2-4 weeks when you introduce the product into your routine, and there’s a reason for this. Symptoms of the purge are the same as any breakout and will likely include blackheads, whiteheads and sometimes raised bumps. However, unlike your usual breakouts, they are usually more uniform. They will look like a cluster of bumps as opposed to sparse larger pimples that are all in different stages of their life.
How to introduce retinol into your routine
It’s not all doom and gloom, there are things you can do to mitigate the intensity of a purge. The main thing is to introduce retinols into your routine slowly and try to keep the other products as gentle as possible. Start by applying your retinol product every other day, for example, eventually working your way up to using it every night. Applying a gentle soothing moisturiser over the top can also help with irritated skin and if you have extra sensitive skin, try applying moisturiser first which will act as a barrier.
Tips for surviving the retinol purge period
Keep your skin hydrated
The main way to keep your retinol purge under control is by ensuring that your skin is well-hydrated. Hydration is always key, but it’s extra important when you start using retinol as it will help to maintain the skin's barrier function and will also reduce irritation and dryness.
Incorporating hydrating serums and moisturisers into your routine is a great place to start. Look for products including ingredients such as hyaluronic acid and aloe vera as these help to attract moisturise to the skin which will help with the side effects of retinol. Also, opt for a gentle cleanser and make sure you drink plenty of water.
Try a retinol sandwich
Try the retinol sandwich method, which involves ‘sandwiching’ your retinol between two layers of moisturisers. This will help to minimise the potential side effects such as dryness and irritation and is a great way to begin your introduction.
Avoid over-exfoliating
Be cautious with physical or chemical exfoliants while your skin is adjusting to retinol. Over-exfoliation can lead to increased irritation and sensitivity.
Apply SPF
Retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so apply a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 daily, even on cloudy days.
Sticking with your retinol routine
If you stick to your routine despite the purge, these breakouts will give way to clearer, smoother skin. The benefits undoubtedly outweigh this initial obstacle, so stick with your routine for at least a few months before you throw the towel in.
The ritual to perfect skin
Of course, everyone's skin is different and the purge period will look different for everyone (or you might not experience one at all). The most important thing is choosing your retinol product wisely. Here’s an example of a ritual that incorporates retinol:
Gentle Cleanser
Start with a Gentle Cream Cleanser to gently remove makeup and daily impurities while also injecting protective hydration to nourish dry and sensitive skin.
Tone your skin
Clarify the skin with the Active Clarifying Toner.
Start with a hydrating serum
Starting with a hydrating serum such as the Ultimate Renewal Serum to prep the skin and give it a hydration boost.
Retinol serum
The Skinsmiths PRO Strength Retinol is the gold standard when it comes to retinol products. Activated by a synergistic blend of retinol and phytoretinol to amplify cellular renewal for younger-looking skin, this formula is infused with Sodium Hyaluronate to provide deeper hydration that helps firm and plump the skin.
Finish with a gentle moisturiser
Now it’s time to lock in all that hard work. Seal in hydration with the Complete Recovery Moisturiser.
No one likes a breakout and we get that it can be offputting. But trust us when we tell you the benefits absolutely outweigh the burdens. So stick with it - you won’t regret it!
